I’m going to begin with a confession. I’ve heard it’s good for the soul.
I’m sitting at a table at TACO•nooga, a new Tex-Mex restaurant on Frazier Avenue. I’ve just placed my order with the server, who will soon be returning with fried cactus and grilled steak nachos.
That alone should be enough for a confession. But it’s not what I want to share. Rather, I feel compelled to tell you this is my third visit to TACO•nooga since first hearing about it one week ago.
What can I say? There’s Tex-Mex, and then there’s TACO•nooga.
Perhaps you’ve noticed the startling number of Tex-Mex places popping up in the Chattanooga area, including three downtown. I noticed because I love Tex-Mex, and am always looking for a place that’s a cut above the rest. That’s not easy because, to me, a lot of Tex-Mex places seem to order food from the same vendor, and pull from the same pool of recipes when building their menu.
TACO•nooga impressed me with my first bite of veggie nachos. The server had placed a large bowl of cheese-covered chips topped with a variety of grilled vegetables in front of me, and told me to enjoy my food. I did. The veggies were fresh, I loved the cheese, and the chips... They were lighter and tastier than the typical Tex-Mex place. But I couldn’t put my finger on why.
I found out during my second visit. As I placed my order, I asked for a side of chips. The young lady who took my order said, “You’ll love ‘em. I just made ‘em.”
“Wait, what?”
That’s right. TACO•nooga doesn’t order its chips wholesale; its crew makes them in plain view of the dining area. They make their own corn tortillas, too.
This makes a big difference not in the freshness of the food but how it tastes. TACO•nooga don’t stop with chips and tortillas, though. Nearly every menu item is homemade, and has what I have come to think of as the TACO•nooga touch.
For example, I just polished off the fried cactus. (You didn’t think I was typing non-stop, did you? Writers need sustenance.) It’s not as exotic as it sounds, but it is delicious. Served with a tangy chipotle sauce, the coating is thick and crunchy, and the cactus meat tastes like a cross between fried green tomatoes and okra, but without the slime. It’s my regular starter when I come here. (Does three times in one week make me a regular? I would argue it does.)
Then there are the empanadas, which I was encouraged to try during my second visit when each of the four men seated at a nearby table ordered them, and assured me they were “amazing.” They certainly looked the part: two golden fried patties filled with a savory picadillo (ground beef cooked with potatoes, tomatoes, bell peppers, onions, garlic, and parsley) and topped with lettuce, sour cream, and cheese.
The patties were big and fluffy, and the toppings completed what to me was a terrific presentation. Some Tex-Mex tends to lie flat on the plate; TACO•nooga’s food is nearly as vertical as it is horizontal.
I’ve also tried the Guaca-Mex, TACO•nooga’s own spin on guacamole. This chunky appetizer is heavy on cilantro, but the avocado taste wins out. It reminded me of the guacamole at (the also wonderful) Conga Latin Food on Main Street, but without the pico de gallo.
There are plenty of other foods to try, including tacos made to suit every taste, whether you like grilled chicken, carne asada, chorizo (seasoned Mexican sausage), carnitas (seasoned pork tenderloin), pescado (grilled tilapia), camaron (shrimp), or lengua (beef tongue). Every thing, including the sausage, is made in-house.
I haven’t even touched on the fajitas, tamales, or pupusas, let alone the homemade beans (take THAT, Taco Bell), Mexican street corn, or Mexican sandwiches. But I have to stop here, because writers not only need sustenance, they also need to stick to word limits.
What else do you need to know? Not much. But I will mention the no-frills décor (who cares?), the prices (surprisingly good, given how much food you’re given), and the parking, which could be better (parking on Frazier is limited, so you’ll likely have to park in a lot on a hill behind the restaurant).
As I’ve written this column, TACO•nooga has filled to capacity. But service was quick. During the hour or so I’ve sat here, I’ve watched the dining area fill, empty, and fill again at least twice, so if you’re looking for a quick lunch spot that serves great food, TACO•nooga is an excellent choice.
If there’s anything better for the soul than confession, it’s a great meal, so as I prepare to leave, I’m doubly blessed. Here’s hoping TACO•nooga isn’t one of those “here today, gone tomorrow” establishments Chattanooga has seen a lot of; let’s hope they’re serving Tex-Mex that’s a cut above the rest for years to come.