If you ever find yourself bored, load YouTube and watch an episode of “Jolly,” a series in which a pair of British chaps named Josh and Ollie try the food at various American restaurants for the first time. In particular, watch the episode titled “Brits try real Texas BBQ!”
Not only do I believe you’ll chuckle at their banter (“That looks like something out of ‘The Flintstones,’ gasps Ollie as Josh lifts what looks like a seared dinosaur rib), but you might also find yourself planning a trip to Austin, Texas to dine at Terry Black’s BBQ.
Watching the pair all but melt in their seats as they dug into a tray of glistening smoked meats nearly had me reaching for my phone and telling my son I was headed his way. After gorging themselves on a pile of seasoned and blackened sensations, they both called the feast the best meal they’d ever had.
Simply describing what Josh and Ollie ate without offering a suitable local alternative could be considered cruel if you’re unable to hop on a plane bound for ATX. Fortunately, you and a good friend can cast yourselves in the roles of our British friends and head to a local joint called Chi Chi’s Charred Chicken, a new Chattanooga restaurant that serves the juiciest, most savory smoked chicken I’ve ever had.
I thought about trying to not oversell Chi Chi’s, as I occasionally receive emails from readers who amiably disagree with my raving assessments of local cuisine. But, like Josh and Ollie declaring Mr. Black’s barbecue to be the best they’ve ever eaten, I’m going to stick to my guns.
Maybe revealing that the owner of Chi-Chi’s is none other than prolific Chattanooga restauranter Chuy Esquivel would help my case. Not only is Chuy one of the nicest Chattanoogans to say, “Bienvenido,” but he somehow appears to effortlessly juggle five businesses, including one Chi Chi’s, two Mexivilles, a 423 Taco and (because he has to do SOMETHING after his restaurants close) Cabanas Latin Night Club.
Chi Chi’s, which shares a wall with one of the Mexivilles at 811 Market Street, seems to have the lion’s share of Chuy’s attention at the moment. I’ve been there twice, and the man himself has taken my order both times.
Having recently dined at a Tex-Mex spot in Nashville that had a nine-page menu as large as a billboard and countless selections printed in a tiny font, Chi Chi’s menu is a relief for the eyes as well as the decision-making center of the human brain: it takes up one side of a single 8-by-11 sheet and the dishes are neatly printed in large letters. I wanted to weep.
From sandwiches and wings to salads and wraps, there are still plenty of options. There’s even a Tex-Mex-themed chicken pasta dish and a chicken bowl. You might be disappointed if you’re looking for something other than chicken, but if that’s the case, hop next door to Mexiville.
The prices also made me want to tear-up. Or, I should say, price. Nearly everything on the menu, barring the sides and a couple of larger dishes, costs $10.99, including the star of the show – the half-chicken with two sides.
That’s not a misprint. Chuy will serve you half of a chicken and two generously portioned sides for less than many local restaurants charge for one appetizer. At a time when people are pinching pennies again because of the rising cost of everything, this is a big deal.
I wouldn’t be surprised if Chuy is making a statement about the responsibility businesses have to build their communities rather than bleed them dry, or if he just wants to help people save a few dollars while eating a good meal.
Or a fabulous meal. Set before me only a few minutes after I placed my order during both of my visits, Chi Chi’s chicken is smoked to perfection – or close to it. Not only does the charred skin look like it was pulled from the heat at just the right moment, but the meat clings to the bone long enough to let you lift it to your mouth and inhale.
The flavor is just as balanced. It’s smoky, but not too smoky, and it has the ideal blend of whatever spices Chuy’s crew rubs into the chicken before cooking it. Also, the white meat is nearly as tender and moist as roasted beef.
I enjoyed the sides as well. There are 11 ranging from variations of rice, beans and corn to asparagus and macaroni and cheese. I chose the sweet potato fries and housemade guacamole, the latter of which is the chef’s kiss.
The space where Chuy opened Chi Chi’s has served as a revolving door for a variety of eateries. The most recent tenant was a gyro joint that seemed to shutter almost as soon as it had opened. I hope enough people discover Chi Chi’s and make it a regular haunt to keep it open for years to come.
Maybe even Josh and Ollie will hear about Chi Chi’s and travel to the Scenic City to tape an episode there. If this unlikely event occurs, I wouldn’t be surprised if they melted in their seats and declared it some of the best chicken they’ve ever had.