“I love Chen’s,” my sister declared in a Marco Polo video after I’d sent her a picture of the menu of the newly opened Chattanooga restaurant, whose full name is “Chen’s Chinese Cuisine & Sushi.”
I was hoping I’d at least enjoy it as a lunch option, as it’s close to home. I’d been eyeing the sign since the eatery opened on Gunbarrel Road near Hobby Lobby, and despite thinking the founders tacked on the “& Sushi” as an afterthought, I was feeling optimistic.
First impressions are important, of course, and Chen’s does inspire confidence with a neatly decorated establishment. It’s no Rain Thai Bistro or P.F. Chang’s, but it’s bright and clean, which more than makes up for the lack of elegance.
I walked in knowing nothing about the establishment, which I was thinking could be a takeout spot. While Chen’s does offer its menu to go, it also has a spacious dining area and a host ready to seat hungry diners. That was me, and I was promptly seated by a friendly staffer.
Before long, I was sipping iced tea and browsing the menu.
I’d brought a book, but if I’d forgotten to the menu would have served the same purpose. The thing looks like a sleek magazine, with appetizing photos of many of the dishes, and reads like a novel. I’d wager its word count could give the menu at your favorite Mexican joint a run for the money.
While variety is a good thing, it can lead to indecision, and I believe I heard a barely audible huff after I told my server for the third time that I needed a few more minutes.
How can I whittle the selections but still whet your appetite? I don’t believe I can, but I will tell you I wavered between the orange chicken, the crispy shrimp with honey walnuts, and the scallops in garlic sauce – all of which glistened beautifully on the menu’s glossy pages.
While the “& Sushi” was definitely not an afterthought – there are two full pages of sushi and rolls – it held no appeal for me.
I opted for the orange chicken, white rice and vegetable spring roll because Chen’s offers a lunch-sized serving, and I didn’t want to return to work as plump as the Panda Express mascot.
Comedian Brian Regan tells a funny joke about servers at fancy restaurants always complimenting the choices diners make, regardless of what they order. “I’ll have a hamburger,” Regan says as he pretends to order at a five-star establishment. “Excellent choice,” he then says, delivering the server’s response.
It’s a funny gag because it’s true. But I have a feeling no matter what a person orders at Chen’s, it’ll be an excellent choice. The orange chicken certainly was.
The sauce was savory and left just a hint of heat on the tongue, the coating was fried to crispy perfection, and the plump chunks of white chicken inside all of that were somehow juicy, despite being thoroughly cooked.
As I ate, I fired up Marco Polo and told my sister I loved it, too.
I do worry about Chen’s location. Gunbarrel is one of the Chattanooga’s main commercial arteries, but between P.F. Chang’s, Panda Express, Forbidden City and wherever else I’m not remembering, it already has more than its share of Chinese and Japanese options.
That said, there was a good crowd for lunch, and I heard the patrons lob more than an enthusiastic compliments toward the staff. Also, the service was quick and welcoming, and there was plenty of free parking outside.
However, I believe the food will be enough to bring people back, and like the server at a posh restaurant, feel safe saying there isn’t a bad selection on the menu.
Chen’s Chinese Cuisine & Sushi
2288 Gunbarrel Road
Reservations: 423 287-6180
Order online
Hours: 11 a.m.-9:30 p.m. Sundays through Thursdays; 11 a.m.-10:30 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays