God bless Mike Robinson. Or God bless Volkswagen. Really, God bless anyone who had anything to do with the opening of Brewhaus, a new German-American pub on Frazier Street. This is remarkably good food. If you’re familiar with German fare, you might already have made up your mind that it’s not your thing. Sauerkraut, brats and dark beer have never appealed to me. But that doesn’t mean Brewhaus won’t be your thing. I’ve eaten lunch there once, and I’ve already declared myself a regular.
While Brewhaus offers plenty of authentic German cuisine, their chef has given many of their dishes a Southern twist. This makes the pub’s food more tempting to people born with a regional palate, and allows the chef to create a menu packed with surprises.
My selection certainly made a believer out of me. I had sat down intending to have a smoked sausage on a pretzel bun with homemade horseradish mustard, but somehow, the server talked me into ordering the “rooster schnitzel wiender art.” A true “classic from the old country,” the dish consists of two juicy, tender pork loins pounded thin, breaded and sautéed to a golden, crispy brown. You can order them like that, but the putting a pair of runny eggs on top really put this offering over the top.
The dish comes with two sides, with selections including German potato salad, home fries, spaetzle, vinegar slaw, bier cabbage, fresh veggies and potato cakes. I chose the potato salad and the spaetzle.
My choices give me the opportunity to make a point about Brewhaus. If you try enough selections on their menu, you’ll probably encounter something that goes against your personal grain. For me, it was the warm potato salad. Owner Robinson said his German patrons turn up their noses at the spaetzle, tiny egg noodles traditionally served with butter. Brewhaus prepares its spaetzle with sautéed garlic, onions, mushrooms and a pepper cream sauce. It’s wonderful. In addition to enjoying it as a side, you can order it as a main dish with a grilled brat or veggies. The latter is already on my to-do list.
The point I want to make, though, is that there are so many appetizing selections on the Brewhaus menu that the inclusion of a few things that don’t sound personally appealing is not a problem.
Susanne, the general manager of this newspaper, accompanied me, and ordered the “Brewhaha,” a grilled, beer-marinated brat and a smoke sausage atop a bed of kraut. I tried both the brat and the sausage, and while the brat did not win me over, the sausage is incredible. Brewhaus imports them from Europe, so they had better be incredible. My only complaint is that the food reduced the conversation during lunch to occasional exclamations of, “Mmm,” “Ohhh,” and “So good!”
Susanne, who claims to have German blood running through her veins, also described the kraut as “delicious.”
Some of the other highlights on the chef-driven menu at Brewhaus include starters such as honey bacon deviled eggs, Bavarian pretzels & mustard, and German spiced pickle chips, which they gently batter and then deep fry. Some of the selections under “Belegtes brot” include a grilled pimento cheese sandwich, a made-from-scratch pecan chicken salad sandwich, and their popular Heidelberger patty melt, a combination of beef, bratwurst, grilled onions and pimento cheese on grilled sourdough bread. Brewhaus also serves salads, grilled, spicy and veggie brats or smoked sausages on a pretzel bun, and a fried apple pie with cinnamon butter ice cream for dessert.
Because I don’t drink, I didn’t try any beer, but rest assured there are more than a dozen fancy sounding German brews on tap for those who wish to partake of a pint or two, as well as bottled American bier, errr, beer.
What else can I tell you?
Although a pub, Brewhaus has a distinct family-friendly vibe. Also, the atmosphere is casual. And with a view of the Tennessee River, Coolidge Park and the Walnut Street Bridge, the outside dining area at Brewhaus promises to be something special come spring.
Another plus: Brewhaus has its own parking. There are only a few spaces, but if you get there early for lunch, you should be able to claim one of the highly coveted spots.
During one of his stops at our table, Robinson admitted that the opening of the Volkswagen plant in Chattanooga was a big motivator for him in launching Brewhaus. Whatever his reasons, he’s added a unique food experience to Chattanooga – one that’s both exotic and familiar. With its remarkably good food and generous German portions, you’re almost certain to enjoy your meal.
Email David Laprad at dlaprad@hamiltoncountyherald.com.