There are times when I think Chattanooga has enough restaurants. And then I find myself staring at a Steinbeck, and I realize a city can never have too many great places to eat.
I’m getting ahead of myself. I hope you’ll forgive me. Since taking my first bite of the Steinbeck, one of the many delicious burgers served at Universal Joint, I’ve thought of little else.
If you spend any amount of time downtown, and in particular on Georgia Avenue, you’ve likely seen the abandoned gas station at the corner of Vine Street and Georgia. Once home to Farrow’s Service Station, the aging structure has somehow clung to its patch of concrete through the revitalization of the city. Although I don’t know its history, it still being there seems like a small marvel.
Owner Mike Brennan is making a habit of turning old gas stations into restaurants around the South. It’s easy to see why: Universal Joint has character.
Outside, the original sign has been restored, and looks so authentic, it could fool travelers into thinking an old-time gas station has sprung up in the city. Inside, most of the paint has nearly peeled off the walls, and the art deco curves of the ceilings recall an earlier, more stylish time. The grey concrete under your feet has been scrubbed clean, but not been tiled or carpeted, and old oil cans, car repair products, and other rusty nostalgia rests on built-in shelves. There’s no other restaurant in Chattanooga like Universal Joint.
Some things have changed. The outside is painted stark white, the eating area is fenced in, and an elevated table now resides where gas pumps once sat. Inside, the main dining area fills a space just inside of two garage doors. Patrons will find a fully stocked bar and more tables in another portion of the former service station.
Still, despite the modifications, there’s no doubting what Universal Joint once was – I half expected to hear the whir of a tire drill or a garage door being raised to let in a rumbling Chevy Camaro or Ford Mustang.
Atmosphere will get a restaurant only so far, though. What matters next is what’s on the menu. At Universal Joint, you’ll find fresh, local foods like sandwiches, burgers, salads, tacos, and bar snacks. Items that popped out to me included: BBQ Brisket Nachos, made of smoked brisket, queso, pickled jalapeños, cilantro-corn, red onion, salsa, and sour cream; Universal Fries, which come smothered in cheddar, smoked bacon, scallions, and homemade ranch dressing; grilled salmon salad; chicken tacos; the B.A.T. (bacon, arugula, tomato, mayo on grilled ciabatta bread); and the Steinbeck.
For no particular reason, I was in the mood for a burger. Burgers serve as a kind of litmus test for a restaurant; if their burgers are good, you can pretty much trust everything else on the menu that looks good to you.
Although the Cheddar Bacon Burger tempted me, I went with the Steinbeck – for reasons I will soon explain. Our waitress was polite, but more about speed and efficiency, which I appreciated since it was the lunch hour. She did crack an obligatory smile when I said I wanted a Coke and an oil change. (In her defense, she probably hears that several times a day.)
The wait wasn’t brief, but it didn’t feel long, either. The weather was beautiful, with blue skies above us and sunlight splitting the pavement, so my lunch companion and I could have stepped outside to play a game of cornhole if the mood had struck us. I was thirsty, though, and the huge glass of fizzy soda swimming in ice kept me seated. Oddly, I thought the noise level was perfect: the restaurant was packed and full of conversation, but thankfully lacked the clang and clatter of a diner.
The plate with my burger arrived on the arm of my server, open-faced for me to see the contents and laden with fries. After it was placed in front of me, I took a moment to soak it in. I’ve eaten quite a few burgers, but never one with a thick patty topped with pimento cheese, bacon, jalapeños, onions, lettuce, and tomato. It was love at first bite.
How much did I enjoy my Steinbeck? I went back a few days later and ordered the same thing.
I’m giving Universal Joint thumbs up. It has good food, a unique atmosphere, and solid service. When the server asks for your order, I dare you to point to your belly and say, “Fill ‘er up!”