Hamilton Herald Masthead

Editorial


Front Page - Friday, October 3, 2014

River City Roundabout


Biscuits so good, you’ll wanna slap your momma!



The girl at Cracker Barrel uses phrases I don’t understand. Like when I asked, “How are the biscuits and gravy?” And she said, “Oh, they’ll make you wanna slap your momma.” Then I guess I don’t want the biscuits and gravy, seeing my mom’s here and all. 

Comedian Tim Hawkins’s funny bit about biscuits and gravy brings up a good point: Sometimes, it’s hard to explain how good something tastes. It’s like trying to explain a color to a blind person; to know what red looks like, they have to see it for themselves. Likewise, to truly savor something delicious, you have to taste it for yourself. With this in mind, I hope you’ll forgive me if I find myself at a loss for words as I try to explain how good the biscuits at Maple Street Biscuit Company are. 

“Maple Street Biscuit Company?” 

That’s what I said to myself as I walked down the Market Street near 4th Avenue and passed by the space that last housed Sweet Peppers Deli. Curiosity drew me in, but the smell of the freshly baked biscuits kept me there, and compelled me to change lunch plans. 

“Lunch plans?” 

My, we’re full of questions today, aren’t we? Yes, lunch plans. Open Monday through Thursday from 7 a.m. to 2 p.m., and Fridays and Saturdays from 7 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 5 to 9 p.m., Maple Street Biscuit Company serves a variety of breakfast and lunch foods, most of which begin with a biscuit and end with you saying, “Good thing momma isn’t here!” 

The moment I stepped inside, I was at the back of a line that wound through a rope barricade. I was glad for the long queue because it gave me time to look over the menu, located on a large board behind the counter where you place your order. 

Maple Street Biscuit Company serves 18 “Signature Sandwiches” containing a variety of ingredients, many of which are spelled c-h-i-c-k-e-n, b-a-c-o-n, and e-g-g. There’s “The Five,” which comes with an all-natural chicken breast, pecan wood smoked bacon, and cheddar cheese, and is topped with sausage gravy. Then there’s “The Five and Dime,” which is the same thing topped with a fried egg. 

Lunch-oriented fare includes “The Reinhold,” which comes with a chicken breast, crunchy dill pickles, and house-made honey mustard. You might also enjoy “The Chicken Club,” a biscuit stuffed with chicken breast, bacon, romaine lettuce, tomato, and either blue cheese or ranch dressing. 

Maple Street Biscuit Company does offer non-chicken and non-bacon options. “The Blues Biscuit,” which comes with pulled pork, house-made slaw, and honey barbeque sauce, sounds tempting, as does the “The Ralphie,” which is your basic biscuit and gravy combo. Yes, you can top the latter with an egg, making it a “Ralphie Deluxe.” 

A reasonable question might be forming in your mind: Do the sandwiches at Maple Street Biscuit Company come with a free angioplasty? Clearly, many of the selections at the restaurant fall under the category of “comfort food,” but there are choices for vegetarians, or people wanting to eat something on the lighter (but not necessarily light) side. “The Iron Goat” is stuffed with goat cheese and sautéed spinach, while “The Garden Egg” includes an egg and collard greens splashed with hot sauce. 

I’ve spent four paragraphs describing just a few of the sandwiches at Maple Street Biscuit Company, but that’s not all there is to eat there. The restaurant also serves a slew of sides, ranging from “Smokey Mountain Mac-N-Cheese,” to “Rural Oatmeal,” to “Hashups.” The latter is a heap of home fries, chopped smoked ham, red and green peppers, grilled onions, mushrooms, and melted cheese. Yes, we’re back to talking about comfort food. 

Comfort food or not, you can feel good about eating at Maple Street Biscuit Company because of how they prepare their selections. Their all-natural chicken is just that – chicken with no hormones, injections, or additives – and their biscuits are made on the premises using real butter and a little maple syrup. They make their own jams and jellies, too – there in the restaurant, sans preservatives. Imagine eating a freshly made biscuit covered with apple butter baked down from fresh Gala apples. Momma had better duck. 

The line eventually moved forward, so I will, too. When you place your order at Maple Street Biscuit Company, the cashier will ask you for the name of your favorite band. As I looked at the tiny teenager girl on the other side of the counter, I said, “Boston,” and then added, “You don’t even know who they are, do you?” To my surprise, she said, “Of course I do. My daddy taught me well.” 

As I waited, and listened to the prep team shouting out the names of different bands as they placed on the pick-up counter, I hoped no one else had picked Boston. I didn’t want to find myself biting into an “Iron Goat” when I’d ordered “The Sticky Maple,” a biscuit stuffed with chicken and bacon and topped with real maple syrup made at Bissell Family Farm. 

I did wish I’d said my favorite band was the Sex Pistols, just to hear the girl at the pick-up counter shout it out to a roomful of diners, and I smiled when she yelled, “The Police,” and I pictured a Maple Street Biscuit Company in New York City or Chicago clearing out. 

It should go without saying that my Sticky Maple was amazing, but I’m going to say it anyway. The biscuit was pure warm, buttery goodness, while the plump chicken breast more than filled me up. I liked the coating on the chicken, too, and enjoyed sopping up the leftover syrup. 

Maple Street Biscuit Company is one of those restaurants you’ll be drawn back to, and will recommend to friends. I’ve been back twice, and I’ve told several people to check it out. While I’ve never been at a loss for words when describing the food, I still tell them, “You’ve got to try it for yourself.” 

You should try it for yourself,

too. Just leave your momma at home.