Hamilton Herald Masthead

Editorial


Front Page - Friday, October 18, 2024

River City: Ernest Chinese finds new fan base – the lunch crowd




General Ern’s Chicken comes with sweet and spicy chicken, steamed broccoli, and either egg fried rice (pictured) or lo mein. - Photos by David Laprad | Hamilton County Herald

I’d just unfolded my fortune cookie-shaped napkin and spread it across my lap when my server arrived to take my order. One of the perks of being the first diner through the front door must be quick service, I said to the woman, who beamed as she nodded.

Anyone who’s enjoyed a meal at Ernest Chinese in Chattanooga will understand when I say I could have used more time to pour over the mouthwatering menu. It would have been easier to choose one of my children to visit.

“I’ll see my daughter. Wait, no, I’ll see my son. Well, just a moment.”

Like leaping off a cliff, I chose the egg drop soup, a serving of General Ern’s Chicken and a side of egg fried rice. “And a pork egg roll, please,” I said earnestly, as if it was the only thing I’d ordered. The server’s right eyebrow arced slightly, but I was famished.

“That’s a lot of food,” she smiled. “But we have boxes.”

Meanwhile, the door opened several times as more patrons arrived. “Great,” I lamented. “There goes the speedy service.”

What was the rush? After all, what better reward is there after a day of hard work than a leisurely dinner at one of Chattanooga’s finest Asian eateries?

To be sure, the cuisine at Ernest Chinese could serve as a very fine reward indeed. After opening in December 2023, the restaurant gained a reputation for dishes that are more of an evolution than an elevation of Asian staples.

But I wasn’t at Ernest Chinese for dinner; I was there for lunch.

Until recently, if I’d arrived at 11:30 and tried to enter the restaurant, I would have been greeted with a locked door. I would’ve looked silly as I peered through the glass of the Johnson Street building and looked for signs of life.

But on this day – one of autumn’s first chilly days – an open door and a staff as friendly and ready to leap to action as any in the city greeted me since Ernest Chinese is now serving lunch.

And what better way is there after a morning of hard work than a leisurely noontime meal at one of Chattanooga’s finest Asian eateries?

The server explained the variation of the restaurant’s menu to me, even though as a first-timer, I wouldn’t have known the difference. But for patrons who have experienced an evening meal at Ernest Chinese, the lunch fare is similar to the dinner offerings, it’s simply presented differently.

Instead of the entire menu being a la carte, diners can order one item from each of three groups for a total cost of $18. Hence, my meal of egg drop soup, a serving of General Ern’s Chicken, and a side of egg fried rice.

Some of the other choices included hot and sour soup or wonton, lo mein instead of egg fried rice, and an extensive selection of entrées beginning with chicken and broccoli and ending with veggie stir-fry.

Other selections are available a la carte, if you want to eat light, or if you’re famished and want to toss a pork egg roll into the mix. *cough*

No sooner had my server disappeared behind the wall next to my booth than she reappeared carrying a bowl of steaming egg drop soup and a bowl of tiny fried noodles. Both of my eyebrows arced in surprise.

“We have a kettle of it ready to serve,” she grinned after noting my expression.

Moments later, the soup was sliding down my gullet and warming my insides. The flavor was exquisite, as though a team of experts, or one very experienced chef, had concocted its perfect briny flavor.

As if on cue, the pork egg roll and a bowl of sweet and sour sauce arrived moments after my last swallow of soup; likewise, I’d barely sopped up the last bit of sweet and sour sauce when my server placed my entrée and egg fried rice in front of me.

My lamenting had been for nothing; despite Ernest Chinese becoming quite busy as the lunch crowd swelled, the service didn’t miss a beat.

And what better way is there to fuel up for an afternoon of hard work than a quick and satisfying lunch that doesn’t involve a greasy burger or a plate of generic enchiladas?

Nothing about Ernest Chinese is generic, as diners have been discovering for nearly a year. Tucked behind Niedlov’s on East Main Street, it’s a cut above the usual Asian fare while remaining accessible for a casual meal.

I’m looking forward to taking either my son or daughter there, as soon as I choose which one.

Ernest Chinese serves lunch beginning at 11:30 a.m. every day. No reservation is necessary. Takeout is available by calling 423 602-5980.